The Mach Express excels in each of these areas as one of the lightest trad draws on the market and by far the most functional. The new Nano 22 on the gear end situates perfectly on any kind of pro from wires to cam slings to bolt hangers and pitons. Their low profile takes up less space on gear loops than traditional carabiners and they fish in and out of cracks, chain links and other tight spaces with ease. Yet they are still big enough for normal clipping and the use of clove hitch knots – two great tests for determining when a carabiner is just too small. The Photon Wire is the lightest full-size carabiner on the market making it the optimal choice for the rope end. It has been updated with a new body design that increases strength and rigidity and a redesigned the interface between the gate and nose to help protect the wire gate from damage or accidental opening. The Dyneema slings are light, strong and thin making them the perfect choice for long routes. The unique properties of Dyneema also make them particularly well-suited for wet conditions common with alpine conditions.
A good draw for long routes should be: